Cambodia Travel Guide: 3 Cities, Costs and Itineraries

Overview

Cambodia gets visited for one reason and stays in people's minds for several more. Angkor Wat and the wider Angkor Archaeological Park pull in the crowds, and they earn it, hundreds of temples spread across jungle and rice paddy, built over four centuries by an empire that once ran most of mainland Southeast Asia. But the country you pass through to get there is not a theme park. Phnom Penh sits a few hours south, a low-rise riverside capital that is direct about its own history in a way few capitals are, Tuol Sleng and Choeung Ek are part of any honest itinerary, not an optional add-on. South of the capital, Sihanoukville has been rebuilt almost entirely around Chinese casino investment since the late 2010s, and the town itself is not the draw anymore, the islands off its coast are, Koh Rong and Koh Rong Samloem still have the beaches that used to define this coast. Cambodia runs on the US dollar for anything above small change, with Cambodian riel filling in the gaps, and that dual system trips up nearly every first-time visitor in the first hour. The heat is real and the wet season shapes travel plans from June through October. None of this makes Cambodia difficult. It makes it a country worth reading up on before you land, rather than winging.

Best time to visit

November to February is dry, cooler, and the most comfortable stretch, also the busiest and most expensive at Angkor. March to May is dry but brutally hot, April is the peak of it. June to October is the wet season, humid with heavy afternoon downpours, but greener temples and far fewer people.

Nov-Dec

Dry season begins, cooler mornings, low humidity. Peak season at Angkor and on the coast, book ahead.

Jan-Feb

The most comfortable months overall, dry and relatively cool. Also the most crowded and highest-priced at temples and beach resorts.

Mar-Apr

Dry but hot, April regularly hits 38-40C. Hard on midday temple walking, start early and rest through the afternoon.

May-Jun

Wet season starts, humidity climbs before the rain does. Afternoon storms build daily by June, mornings still usually clear.

Jul-Aug

Full wet season, heavy predictable afternoon rain, mornings often fine. Angkor turns green and the moats fill, fewer tour groups.

Sep-Oct

Wettest months, flooding possible in low-lying parts of Phnom Penh and around Tonle Sap. Cheapest hotel rates of the year.

Visa

Canadian passport holders need a visa; there is no visa-free entry. The e-visa is the simplest route: apply at the official portal (evisa.gov.kh), a single-entry 30-day tourist e-visa costs USD 30 plus a USD 6 processing fee, and standard processing runs 1-3 business days, apply with a buffer of at least a week. Print two copies of the approval. Visa on arrival is also available at the airports and most land borders for USD 30 cash plus a passport photo. Passports need at least 6 months' validity from your entry date. Since July 2024 travellers arriving by air must also file a free Cambodia e-Arrival card online within 7 days of arrival, this is not a visa and does not replace one.

Money

Currency: USD is the de facto everyday currency for anything beyond small change; Cambodian riel (KHR) fills in for amounts under a dollar and is what you'll get back as change. Cards work at hotels, larger restaurants, and malls in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, and Sihanoukville town, but small guesthouses, tuk-tuks, markets, and street food are cash-only. ATMs are common in all three cities and dispense both USD and riel; expect a USD 4-5 withdrawal fee on top of whatever your home bank charges. Not traditional but increasingly expected in tourist-facing spots. Rounding up or leaving small riel notes for tuk-tuk drivers and casual meals is normal; guides and drivers on multi-day arrangements appreciate USD 5-10 a day; upscale restaurants sometimes add a service charge, check the bill first.

Getting around

Domestic flights connect Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, and Sihanoukville in under an hour and are often worth the USD 40-80 over a 5-8 hour bus, especially Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville on a short trip. Long-distance buses (Giant Ibis, Mekong Express) run reliably between the three cities and are the budget default, book a day ahead in peak season. There is no meaningful passenger rail network for tourists to rely on. Within any city, tuk-tuks and app-based rides (Grab operates in all three) cover everything; agree a price or check the app fare before you get in if it isn't metered.

Connectivity

A local SIM (Cellcard, Smart, Metfone) or an eSIM bought before you land is the easy option, tourist SIMs run roughly USD 5-10 for several GB and are sold at both international airports and phone shops in every city. Coverage is solid in all three cities and along the main highways; it thins out on the islands off Sihanoukville, where wifi at guesthouses is the more reliable fallback.

Where to go

Frequently asked questions