Things to Do in Sihanoukville: Itineraries, Costs and Food
The mainland town has been rebuilt almost entirely around Chinese casino investment since the late 2010s. The real reason to come is the islands offshore, not the town itself.
By Labeeb Mirza · Published September 8, 2026 · Updated September 8, 2026
Best timeNov-Apr for the islands
Daily budget (mid)USD 75
Ideal length3 days
CurrencyUSD
Overview
Sihanoukville is not the town it was ten years ago, and any guide that describes it as a laid-back backpacker beach stop is out of date. Since roughly 2018-2019, the mainland town has been rebuilt around large-scale Chinese casino and resort development, construction sites and half-finished towers line long stretches of the road in from the airport, and the backpacker strip that used to define the place has largely moved on or shut down. Some of it has reopened or stabilized since, but it is a different town, built for a different kind of visitor, and worth knowing that before you land.
What hasn't changed is the water. The islands 20-40 minutes offshore, mainly Koh Rong and Koh Rong Samloem, still have the white sand, clear shallows, and slower pace that made this coast a destination in the first place. Most people now treat Sihanoukville town as a transit point, a night at most, on the way to or from the ferry pier, and spend their actual time on an island.
This isn't a case for skipping the region. It's a case for planning around what it actually is now: a functional port and casino town you pass through, and a set of islands you go for. Book the island stay first and let the mainland be a logistics stop, not the destination.
Sihanoukville town surprised me, and not in a good way, if you're expecting anything like the beach town it used to be. Go in expecting a construction and casino district you pass through, not a destination, and you won't be disappointed by something that was never going to match an outdated description.
Koh Rong Samloem over Koh Rong was the right call for a slower trip. Koh Rong has its place if you want a livelier beach and more going on at night, but Samloem is the one I'd send someone who wants to actually switch off for a few days.
Bring more cash than feels necessary before the ferry. Island ATMs are unreliable at best, and running short of cash on a beach with no bank branch for miles is a genuinely inconvenient way to end a relaxing few days.
The wet season crossing is worth planning around if you can. A rough ferry ride on a stormy afternoon is not the introduction to island time you want, and the forecast is usually predictable enough a day or two out to shift plans.
The bioluminescent plankton at night, on a clear dark night with no moon, is one of the better unexpected things I've seen on this coast, and almost nobody mentions it when they talk about these islands.
Itineraries
A single day trip to the closer island and back, for anyone genuinely tight on time.
Day 1: Day trip to Koh Rong
Morning
Early ferry to Koh Rong, straight to Koh Touch beach.
Afternoon
Swim, a beachfront lunch, maybe a short snorkel from the beach.
Evening
Late afternoon ferry back to the mainland, onward transport that night or the next morning.
Tip: A single day barely does the islands justice, this itinerary exists for necessity, not recommendation.
One night on the mainland, two nights on an island, enough to actually feel the slower pace.
Day 1: Arrival and the ferry pier
Morning
Arrive in Sihanoukville by bus or flight, check into a transit stay near Otres Beach.
Afternoon
A relaxed afternoon at Otres, the calmer stretch of the mainland coast.
Evening
Early dinner, early night, the ferry leaves in the morning.
Tip: Buy tomorrow's ferry ticket today if you can, it saves a scramble at the pier.
Day 2: Koh Rong Samloem
Morning
Morning ferry to Koh Rong Samloem, check into a beach bungalow.
Afternoon
Swim, kayak, or just sit, this is the point of the day.
Evening
Dinner on the beach, and a night swim if the plankton are visible.
Tip: Bring cash for the full stay, ATMs here are unreliable.
Day 3: Island morning, ferry back
Morning
One more swim before the afternoon ferry.
Afternoon
Ferry back to Sihanoukville, connect onward.
Evening
Depends on your onward transport.
Tip: Check the ferry schedule the night before, it shifts with the weather and season.
A proper island stay across both Koh Rong and Koh Rong Samloem, with the mainland reduced to a single transit night.
Day 1: Arrival
Morning
Bus or flight into Sihanoukville.
Afternoon
Otres Beach for a few hours.
Evening
Early night before tomorrow's ferry.
Tip: Book tomorrow's ferry ticket today.
Day 2: Koh Rong
Morning
Ferry to Koh Rong, check in near Koh Touch.
Afternoon
Beach time and a snorkel or kayak rental.
Evening
Koh Rong's beach bar scene, livelier than Samloem.
Tip: Stay a short walk from Koh Touch if you want easy access without the noisiest strip.
Day 3: Koh Rong, quieter side
Morning
Walk or short boat to a quieter beach on the same island, away from Koh Touch.
Afternoon
Free time, swim, read, do nothing.
Evening
An island-hopping boat trip if the weather's good, or another relaxed beach evening.
Tip: Koh Rong has quiet corners if you get away from the main village.
Show all 5 days
Day 4: Koh Rong Samloem
Morning
Boat transfer to Koh Rong Samloem.
Afternoon
Saracen Bay or Lazy Beach, the calm contrast to the last two days.
Evening
A quiet beach dinner, minimal nightlife here by design.
Tip: Bring enough cash for the rest of the trip, this is your last easy chance.
Day 5: Last island morning, ferry back
Morning
Final swim.
Afternoon
Ferry back to Sihanoukville and onward.
Evening
Depends on transport.
Tip: Build slack into this day, island ferries run on weather, not always the printed timetable.
A full week across both main islands with room for Koh Ta Kiev's off-grid stretch.
Day 1: Arrival
Morning
Into Sihanoukville.
Afternoon
Otres Beach.
Evening
Early night before the ferry.
Tip: Book the ferry ticket today.
Day 2: Koh Rong
Morning
Ferry to Koh Rong.
Afternoon
Koh Touch beach and a snorkel rental.
Evening
Beach bars, the livelier of the two islands.
Tip: Stay a short walk off the main strip if you want some quiet at night.
Day 3: Koh Rong island-hopping
Morning
A boat day trip around Koh Rong's quieter bays.
Afternoon
Free swim time.
Evening
Night swim if conditions allow, plankton season isn't guaranteed but worth checking.
Tip: Ask your guesthouse about current plankton visibility before planning around it.
Show all 7 days
Day 4: Koh Rong Samloem
Morning
Boat transfer to Samloem.
Afternoon
Saracen Bay.
Evening
Quiet beach dinner.
Tip: Cash up before you leave Koh Rong, options are thinner here.
Day 5: Samloem, slow day
Morning
Kayak or just the beach.
Afternoon
Nothing in particular, this is the point of the week.
Evening
Another quiet dinner.
Tip: This is the day to leave unplanned on purpose.
Day 6: Koh Ta Kiev
Morning
Boat transfer to Koh Ta Kiev for a genuinely off-grid night.
Afternoon
Beach walk, minimal infrastructure by design.
Evening
Generator-powered evening, an early night since there's little else to do after dark.
Tip: Confirm the boat transfer and expect limited power and wifi here.
Day 7: Back to the mainland and departure
Morning
Boat back toward Sihanoukville.
Afternoon
Onward flight or bus.
Evening
Depends on transport.
Tip: Give this day a wide buffer, boat transfers from the smaller islands run less predictably.
Two weeks is more time than the Sihanoukville coast alone needs. This spends a full week across the islands, then folds in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap so the back half of the trip covers the country's other two anchors, treat it as a Cambodia-wide itinerary that starts on the coast.
Day 1: Arrival
Morning
Into Sihanoukville.
Afternoon
Otres Beach.
Evening
Early night before the ferry.
Tip: Book tomorrow's ferry today.
Day 2: Koh Rong
Morning
Ferry to Koh Rong.
Afternoon
Koh Touch beach.
Evening
Beach bars.
Tip: Stay off the loudest strip if you want quiet nights.
Day 3: Koh Rong island-hopping
Morning
Boat day trip.
Afternoon
Free swim time.
Evening
Night swim if plankton are visible.
Tip: Ask locally about current conditions.
Show all 14 days
Day 4: Koh Rong Samloem
Morning
Boat transfer.
Afternoon
Saracen Bay.
Evening
Quiet dinner.
Tip: Cash up before leaving Koh Rong.
Day 5: Samloem, slow day
Morning
Kayak or beach.
Afternoon
Unstructured time.
Evening
Another quiet dinner.
Tip: Leave this day deliberately unplanned.
Day 6: Koh Ta Kiev
Morning
Boat to Koh Ta Kiev.
Afternoon
Off-grid beach time.
Evening
Generator-powered early night.
Tip: Confirm the boat transfer in advance, no regular ferry runs here.
Day 7: Back to Sihanoukville, then Phnom Penh
Morning
Boat back to the mainland.
Afternoon
Bus or flight to Phnom Penh.
Evening
Settle in near the riverside.
Tip: Flying saves most of a day over the road route.
Day 8: Phnom Penh history
Morning
Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum.
Afternoon
Choeung Ek Killing Fields.
Evening
A quiet evening, this is a heavy day.
Tip: Go early to both sites.
Day 9: Phnom Penh city
Morning
Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda.
Afternoon
National Museum and Central Market.
Evening
Riverside sunset walk.
Tip: Dress code applies at the palace.
Day 10: Onward to Siem Reap
Morning
Bus or flight to Siem Reap.
Afternoon
Settle in, walk the Old Market area.
Evening
Dinner around Pub Street.
Tip: Buy the Angkor Pass this afternoon if you can.
Day 11: Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom
Morning
Sunrise at Angkor Wat.
Afternoon
Angkor Thom, Bayon, Ta Prohm.
Evening
Dinner in town.
Tip: Start early, the heat builds fast by late morning.
Day 12: Outer temples
Morning
Preah Khan and Neak Pean.
Afternoon
Ta Som and East Mebon.
Evening
Free evening.
Tip: Quietest day of the circuit.
Day 13: Banteay Srei and Tonle Sap
Morning
Banteay Srei.
Afternoon
Tonle Sap floating village boat trip.
Evening
Final Siem Reap dinner.
Tip: Combine these two if time is short, they're on opposite sides of town though, plan the drive.
Day 14: Departure
Morning
Angkor National Museum or a final look at anything you missed.
Afternoon
Head to the airport.
Evening
Depends on flight time.
Tip: Build in a buffer, this itinerary covers a lot of ground and something will run long somewhere.
Things to do
1Koh Rong ferry crossing and Koh Touch beach
2Photo by allPhoto Bangkok on PexelsKoh Rong Samloem beaches (Saracen Bay and Lazy Beach)
ferries typically run several times daily between roughly 8am and 4pm; exact schedule check before you go·round trip roughly USD 20-25 depending on operator·25-45 minutes each way, plan a full day or overnight on the island
buy same-day at the Sihanoukville pier or online a day ahead in peak season
Several ferry operators run this route and prices and schedules shift season to season; treat the figures here as a starting point and confirm at the pier or through your accommodation. Koh Touch is the main village and busiest beach on the island.
2
Koh Rong Samloem beaches (Saracen Bay and Lazy Beach)
always open·free to visit, resort day-use fees vary if you're not staying there·half day to multi-day
book bungalow accommodation ahead in peak season (Dec-Feb)
The calmer of the two main islands, worth choosing over Koh Rong if the point of the trip is quiet rather than a beach bar scene. Bring more cash than you think, ATMs are scarce to nonexistent on the island.
3
Otres Beach
always open·free·half day
The most livable stretch of the mainland's own coastline, calmer and less built-up than the areas around the old backpacker strip, a reasonable base if you want one mainland night without staying in the casino district.
4
Snorkelling and island-hopping day trips
day tours typically depart 8-9am, back by late afternoon·roughly USD 20-35 per person including gear and lunch, varies by operator·full day
book through your guesthouse or an operator on the pier a day ahead
Visibility and reef quality here are modest compared to Thailand's better sites, go for the boat day and the swimming rather than expecting world-class diving. Bioluminescent plankton night swims are a genuine highlight on a clear, dark night.
5
Koh Ta Kiev
always open·free to visit; accommodation and boat transfer priced separately·overnight or longer
arrange boat transfer through your accommodation in advance, no regular public ferry
The most undeveloped of the accessible islands, minimal infrastructure and limited power. Go if you specifically want a day or two with almost nothing to do, not as a base for a longer stay.
Koh Rong day trip or island stay
as of 2026-09
Viral
Boat trip, about 25km and roughly an hour by fast ferry, to Cambodia's second-largest island for white sand beaches, snorkeling and jungle interior. Still the main reason to come through Sihanoukville. The town itself is mid-construction and rough around the edges, the islands are why people show up.
Koh Rong Samloem night kayak with bioluminescent plankton
as of 2026-09
Viral
Guided night boat or kayak trip on Koh Rong Samloem to see glowing plankton disturbed by paddles and swimming. It's real and it does glow, but only on dark, calm nights with no moon and no light pollution. Ask the operator about conditions before you pay, cloudy or bright-moon nights are a letdown.
Otres Beach
as of 2026-09
Viral
Quieter beach next to the more built-up Serendipity Beach, with calmer sand and a more relaxed strip of beach bars and guesthouses. The better beach if you actually want to sit and read rather than deal with the jet-ski hustle closer to town. Still developing, so expect construction noise in spots.
Kbal Chhay Waterfall
as of 2026-09
Viral
Multi-tiered, 14-meter waterfall about 16km north of the city, fed by mountain streams, strongest during the rainy season from June to October. Fine half-day trip but genuinely seasonal. Outside the rainy months it can be a thin trickle, ask locally about recent rain before making the trip specifically for the falls.
Ream National Park
as of 2026-09
Viral
21,000-hectare coastal national park about 18km from the city, covering evergreen forest, mangroves and beach, with boat trips and short jungle walks. A real alternative to another beach day and less crowded than the islands. Go with a local guide for the boat portion, paths are not always well marked.
Where to stay
Koh Rong
Suits: backpackers, nightlife, snorkelling
The livelier of the two main islands, a real range from basic bungalows to boutique stays, and the busier beach at Koh Touch village.
Koh Rong Samloem
Suits: couples, quiet, a genuine slow-down
Fewer people, calmer beaches, less nightlife, the better pick if the point is doing nothing.
Sihanoukville town (Ochheuteal/Otres area)
Suits: one-night transit stays
Use this only as a stopover before or after the ferry; Otres Beach is the calmer, still-functioning stretch of the mainland coast.
Koh Ta Kiev
Suits: off-grid, minimal infrastructure
Basic tree-house and beach-hut stays, little to no wifi or power beyond generator hours, for travellers who actually want that.
Getting there and around
Getting there
Sihanouk International Airport (KOS) sits about 17km east of town, with a growing number of regional flights, mostly connecting through other Southeast Asian hubs rather than direct long-haul. By road, express buses from Phnom Penh take roughly 2.5-5 hours depending on the operator and traffic, priced around USD 7-15. By air from Phnom Penh, the hop is well under an hour and worth it if you want to protect island time.
Getting around
In town, tuk-tuks and Grab cover everything; the useful trip for most visitors is straight from the bus station or airport to the ferry pier, agree the fare or use the app rather than negotiate blind. On the islands themselves there's little to no road transport, expect to walk the beach paths between resorts or take a short boat transfer arranged by your accommodation.
Map
City
Recommended (numbered)
Mentioned in an itinerary
Locations on this map
Sihanoukville10.61, 103.53
Koh Rong ferry crossing and Koh Touch beach10.72, 103.25
Koh Rong Samloem beaches (Saracen Bay and Lazy Beach)10.58, 103.30
Otres Beach10.57, 103.55
Koh Ta Kiev10.49, 103.60
Siem Reap11.05, 103.81
Pub Street10.61, 103.53
Bayon10.62, 103.53
Ta Som10.62, 103.52
What it costs
Stay
Food
Transport
Activities
Daily cost breakdown, USD per person
Tier
Stay
Food
Transport
Activities
Total
Budget
USD 10
USD 8
USD 5
USD 7
USD 30
Mid-range
USD 35
USD 20
USD 10
USD 10
USD 75
Splurge
USD 120
USD 45
USD 20
USD 15
USD 200
A mid-range island day: USD 35-40 bungalow on Koh Rong Samloem, USD 20-25 on three meals since island restaurants sit inside resorts and price accordingly, USD 5-10 for a day-use kayak or snorkel gear rental, no separate transport cost once you're there since everything is walkable beach path.
Money savers
Book the ferry same-day at the pier in low season rather than paying a markup through a booking site
Bring cash from the mainland, island ATMs are unreliable or absent and some charge steep withdrawal fees when they exist at all
Choose Koh Rong Samloem over Koh Rong if budget matters, fewer party-hostel markups on food and drink
Treat Sihanoukville town as a single transit night rather than paying for two, most of what you'd spend a day on there isn't worth it anymore
Skip organized snorkel tours and rent gear directly from a beach bungalow operator for a shallow reef swim instead
Sihanoukville's food story splits in two: the offshore islands, Koh Rong and Koh Rong Samloem, run almost entirely on fresh grilled seafood sold by guesthouse kitchens and beach shacks, cheap and reliably good because the fish comes straight off the boats. The mainland town is a different animal, reshaped hard by Chinese casino investment over the past decade, and its food shifted with it: a newer strip of Khmer-Chinese restaurants serves the casino workforce and transit crowd, distinct from the beach food entirely. Neither half is where Cambodia's food culture runs deepest, that's Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, but the islands are a genuinely good, low-effort way to eat well between dives and beach days.
USD 5-15 per plate·Beachfront stalls and restaurants on Koh Rong and Koh Rong Samloem
Must try
The obvious island move, squid, snapper and prawns grilled to order, priced by weight or per plate depending on the spot.
Khmer curry and rice sets
USD 3-7·Family-run guesthouse kitchens on the islands
Must try
Often better value than the beachfront bar-restaurants aimed squarely at foreign visitors, and closer to what a Cambodian household actually cooks.
Amok
USD 4-8·Guesthouse kitchens on Koh Rong and Koh Rong Samloem
Steamed fish curry in coconut and kroeung paste, less common on the islands than mainland Cambodia but worth ordering from a family-run kitchen over a beach-bar menu.
Fruit shakes and coconuts
USD 1-2·Beach vendors island-wide
Cheap, cold, and the standard answer to a hot afternoon on the sand.
Lok lak
USD 3-6·Mainland Sihanoukville town restaurants
Stir-fried marinated beef with lime-pepper dipping sauce, a standard order in town when you're not eating seafood, and a reliable option during a transit stop before the ferry.
A byproduct of the casino development, genuinely decent if you're stuck in town for a transit night.
Otres Beach seafood shacks
as of 2026-09
Viral
Casual beachfront restaurants along Otres Beach grilling fresh seafood, away from the casino development that has reshaped downtown Sihanoukville. Honest read: skip downtown, which has largely become a casino zone with less for travelers. Otres still has the beach town feel.
Safety and scams
The mainland town has a rougher reputation than the islands, largely tied to the scale and speed of the casino-district construction; stick to well-lit, populated areas at night and don't wander the half-built construction zones. Overseas job scams targeting foreign workers, not tourists, have been a serious documented problem in Sihanoukville in recent years; it's not something a short-term visitor is likely to run into but it's part of why the town's reputation shifted. On the islands, the main real risks are sun, dehydration, and rough-water swimming conditions in the wet season, not crime. Petty theft on crowded beaches like Koh Touch is worth a normal level of caution.
Common mistakes
Booking multiple nights in Sihanoukville town expecting the old backpacker beach scene
Not bringing enough cash before the ferry, then discovering the island has no working ATM
Booking a snorkel tour expecting Thailand-level reef visibility
Crossing in the wet season without checking the forecast, and getting a genuinely unpleasant ferry ride
Choosing Koh Rong for quiet or Koh Rong Samloem for nightlife, they're roughly reversed from what the names suggest to a first-timer
Frequently asked questions
Is Sihanoukville worth visiting?
The town itself is largely a Chinese casino and construction district now, not the backpacker beach town it used to be. The islands offshore, Koh Rong and Koh Rong Samloem, are still worth it, treat Sihanoukville as the transit point to reach them rather than a destination on its own.
How do I get to Koh Rong or Koh Rong Samloem?
By speedboat ferry from the Sihanoukville pier, roughly 25-45 minutes depending on which island and operator. Several companies run the route with multiple daily departures; buy same-day in low season or a day ahead in peak months.
Which island is better, Koh Rong or Koh Rong Samloem?
Koh Rong has more going on, a livelier beach village, more nightlife, more budget hostel options. Koh Rong Samloem is quieter and calmer, better suited to travellers who want to genuinely switch off rather than socialise.
Are there ATMs on the islands?
Unreliable at best and often nonexistent, especially on Koh Rong Samloem and Koh Ta Kiev. Bring enough cash from the mainland to cover your full stay plus a buffer.
What happened to Sihanoukville?
Starting around 2018-2019, large-scale Chinese casino and resort investment rebuilt much of the town, displacing a lot of the older backpacker infrastructure. Construction slowed and reversed somewhat since, but it remains a fundamentally different town from its earlier backpacker-era reputation.
Is Sihanoukville safe?
The islands are low-risk day to day, with sun and rough-water swimming as the main real hazards. The mainland town has a rougher edge tied to the pace of its casino-district construction; stick to populated, well-lit areas at night and treat it as a transit stop rather than a place to wander after dark.
How many days should I spend on the islands?
Three days minimum to feel the slower pace, five to seven if you want to split time between Koh Rong and Koh Rong Samloem properly. A single day trip is possible but doesn't do the place justice.
Can I fly directly into Sihanoukville?
Sihanouk International Airport has a growing number of regional connections, mostly routed through other Southeast Asian hubs rather than direct long-haul. Flying or busing in via Phnom Penh is still the more common route for most international visitors.
Is the bamboo plankton night swim real?
Yes, bioluminescent plankton are visible on some islands on clear, dark nights, most reliably away from a full moon and light pollution. It isn't guaranteed on any given night, ask your accommodation about current conditions.
What's the wet season like for island travel?
Roughly May through October, with a real chance of rough ferry crossings and washed-out beach days, though prices and crowds both drop noticeably. Check the forecast a day or two out before committing to a crossing.
