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Things to Do in Phnom Penh: Itineraries, Costs and Food

A low-rise riverside capital that is direct about its own recent history. Golden pagoda roofs, French colonial streets, and two of the most important, hardest sites in the country.

Intricate architecture of the Royal Palace in Phnom Penh with golden spires and detailed carvings.
Photo by Roger Madura on Pexels
Best timeNov-Feb
Daily budget (mid)USD 65
Ideal length3 days
CurrencyUSD

Overview

Phnom Penh sits where the Tonle Sap and Mekong rivers meet, and most of what matters here is within a few kilometres of that confluence. The Royal Palace's gold roofs catch the light along the riverside promenade, French colonial shophouses line the streets a few blocks back, and the markets, Central and Russian, still function as real markets rather than tourist sets. It's a smaller, quieter capital than most people expect, low buildings, wide boulevards, motorbikes everywhere but less overwhelming than Hanoi or Bangkok. What sets Phnom Penh apart from most capitals is how directly it handles its own history. Tuol Sleng, a former high school turned Khmer Rouge interrogation centre, and Choeung Ek, the killing field on the city's outskirts, are not optional sidebar attractions, they're part of understanding the country you're travelling through. Most visitors do both in a single morning, and it reshapes how the rest of the trip reads, including Angkor's temples and the coast that come after. The city also works as a base for one of the region's more direct genocide museums to the world, and a functioning capital going about its business around it. Riverside cafes, a growing food scene, and a genuinely walkable core mean Phnom Penh rewards two full days rather than the overnight layover most itineraries give it on the way to Siem Reap or the coast.

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What I actually think

  • Tuol Sleng and Choeung Ek together make for one of the heaviest mornings I've had anywhere, and I'd still tell anyone to do both rather than pick one. They're different parts of the same story and skipping half of it feels like reading a chapter out of order.
  • I didn't plan anything else for the rest of that day and I'd recommend the same. Don't book a food tour or a market crawl right after, give yourself the afternoon to just walk or sit somewhere quiet.
  • The Royal Palace's dress code gets enforced strictly at the gate, not loosely like some sites where you can talk your way in. Cover up before you arrive rather than counting on renting a sarong outside, the queue for those moves slower than you'd think.
  • Phnom Penh's riverside gets all the attention but BKK1's side streets are where the food is genuinely good, not just tourist-adequate. Worth wandering a few blocks off the water at least one evening.
  • The Russian Market is hot enough to make you want to leave in twenty minutes and I'd still go back. It's the one market in the city that still feels like it's for the neighbourhood, not primarily for visitors.
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Itineraries

The essential day: the history sites in the morning, the palace and markets in the afternoon.

Day 1: History and the riverside

Morning

Tuol Sleng first, then Choeung Ek, both by tuk-tuk with the driver waiting between the two, roughly 4-5 hours including transit.

Afternoon

A quiet lunch, then the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda if you have the energy, or the National Museum if you'd rather sit with what you just saw a bit longer.

Evening

A slow walk along Sisowath Quay as the heat breaks, dinner near the riverside.

Tip: Cover shoulders and knees before you leave the hotel, you'll need it for the palace either way.

Things to do

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21)

8:00am-5:00pm dailyUSD 5 international adult, USD 3 ages 10-17 with ID, free under 10, free for Cambodian nationals2-3 hours
walk in; audio guide available on site

A former high school used as a Khmer Rouge interrogation and detention centre from 1975-1979. Go in the morning, take the audio guide, and don't plan anything else demanding for the rest of that half of the day.

Official site

Choeung Ek Genocidal Center (the Killing Fields)

roughly 7:30am-5:30pm dailyaround USD 6, audio tour included1.5-2 hours
walk in, or arrange a tuk-tuk that waits and combines it with Tuol Sleng the same morning

About 17km south of the city centre. Price and hours sourced from a travel guide rather than the site's own listing, worth confirming with your hotel or driver before you go. The audio guide, included in the ticket, does most of the explaining, walk it slowly.

Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda

roughly 8:00am-11:00am and 2:00pm-5:00pm daily; closed to visitors during state functions without noticearound USD 101.5-2 hours

Strict dress code, shoulders and knees fully covered, no exceptions at the gate, sarongs are sold outside if you get caught out. Figures via a travel guide rather than an official palace site, which doesn't appear to exist; reconfirm hours before you go, palace functions can close it without warning.

National Museum of Cambodia

8:00am-5:00pm daily, last admission 4:30pmaround USD 10 adult, USD 5 youth1.5 hours

Terracotta-roofed building next to the Royal Palace, holds the country's best collection of Angkor-era sandstone sculpture. Go before or after the palace since they're a two-minute walk apart. Price via a travel guide, confirm at the counter.

Wat Phnom

roughly 7:00am-6:30pm dailyaround USD 1-2 for non-Cambodian visitors45 minutes

The hilltop temple the city is named for, small and easy to underrate. Worth a quick stop if you're near Wat Phnom roundabout rather than a dedicated trip across town.

Central Market (Phsar Thmei)

roughly 6:30am-5:30pm dailyfree to enter, goods priced individually1 hour

A striking art deco dome from the 1930s, gold and jewellery in the centre, clothes and souvenirs radiating out. Go for the architecture even if you're not buying.

Sisowath Quay Night Market

as of 2026-09
Viral

Weekend riverside night market on Sisowath Quay with stalls, live Khmer music and dance performances, walking distance from the Royal Palace and Wat Phnom. Real and running, not a pop-up. Good for an evening walk and cheap souvenirs, skip it if you already did Siem Reap's version, they blur together.

Vattanac Capital Tower observation deck / Sora Skybar

as of 2026-09
Viral

37th floor open-air terrace and observation area in the city's tallest tower, panoramic view over the Tonle Sap and Mekong confluence. Worth it once for the view, especially at sunset. Drinks are priced for the view, not the pour, so treat it as a ticket price and go once.

HighGround Sky Bar terrace, BKK1

as of 2026-09
Viral

25th and 26th floor bar and open terrace with 360 degree city views, in the BKK1 expat district. Popular on Instagram for the skyline shot. Fine for one sundowner, don't build an evening around it.

Bassac Lane

as of 2026-09
Viral

A once-sleepy residential lane in Tonle Bassac now dense with small bars, restaurants and shops, a nightly hangout for expats, locals and tourists. This is the district that's actually trending, not any single bar on it. Walk the lane and pick whatever looks busy, don't pre-plan one stop.

Central Market (Psar Thmei)

as of 2026-09
Viral

1937 Art Deco market building, the largest of its kind in Asia, French-designed, still a working market for clothes, jewelry, electronics and souvenirs. The building itself is the attraction as much as the shopping. Go mid-morning before it gets stifling under that dome, bargain hard, first price is never the real price.

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum and Choeung Ek Killing Fields

as of 2026-09
Viral

The former S-21 prison, now a museum, and the extermination site outside the city where thousands of detainees were killed during the Khmer Rouge period, 1975-78. Not trending in the social-media sense and it shouldn't be treated that way. It's a heavy, essential half-day if you want to understand the country, go with a guide, don't just wander for photos.

More to see (2)

Russian Market (Phsar Toul Tom Poung)

roughly 7:00am-5:00pm daily, quieter on Mondaysfree to enter, goods priced individually, bargaining expected1-1.5 hours

Hot, cramped, and the better market for actual finds, textiles, secondhand books, and clothing factory overruns from the garment plants nearby. Bring cash in small bills.

Sisowath Quay riverside promenade

always openfree1-2 hours

Best in the early evening as the heat breaks, food carts and exercise groups fill the park strip opposite the water. Watch your bag, it's the most touristed stretch of the city.

Where to stay

Riverside (Sisowath Quay)

Suits: first-timers, short stays

Walk to the Royal Palace, National Museum, and the night market, busiest and most touristy strip in the city.

BKK1

Suits: longer stays, quieter nights

Leafy, more residential, home to a lot of the city's better restaurants and cafes, a short Grab from the riverside.

Wat Phnom area

Suits: budget stays, transit connections

Cheaper guesthouses, close to the bus stations, a bit rougher around the edges at night.

Toul Kork

Suits: longer stays, expat pace

Further from the centre but calmer, popular with people working here rather than passing through.

Getting there and around

Getting there

Phnom Penh International Airport sits about 10km southwest of the city centre, 20-30 minutes by road depending on traffic. A metered taxi or Grab runs roughly USD 9-12; a pre-arranged airport transfer or tuk-tuk is a similar range. There's also a public bus route into the centre for a few thousand riel if you're not carrying much luggage.

Getting around

Grab covers the city well and takes the haggling out of getting around; tuk-tuks and remork (larger motorbike-drawn carriages) are everywhere and cheaper if you're comfortable agreeing a price upfront. The riverside core, from the Royal Palace to the Night Market, is walkable, but the heat and inconsistent sidewalks make short Grab rides worth it for anything over 15-20 minutes on foot.

Map

  • City
  • Recommended (numbered)
  • Mentioned in an itinerary

Locations on this map

  • Phnom Penh11.56, 104.93
  • Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21)11.55, 104.92
  • Choeung Ek Genocidal Center (the Killing Fields)11.48, 104.90
  • Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda11.56, 104.93
  • National Museum of Cambodia11.57, 104.93
  • Wat Phnom11.58, 104.92
  • Central Market (Phsar Thmei)11.57, 104.92
  • Russian Market (Phsar Toul Tom Poung)11.54, 104.91
  • Sisowath Quay riverside promenade11.57, 104.93
  • Khmer11.57, 104.90
  • Koh Dach11.67, 104.94
  • Mekong11.72, 104.95
  • Silk Island11.63, 104.94
  • French11.57, 104.90
  • Siem Reap11.58, 104.90
  • Angkor Wat11.56, 104.93
  • Angkor Thom11.59, 104.87
  • Bayon11.50, 104.88
  • Ta Prohm11.54, 104.99
  • Old Market11.57, 104.93
  • Preah Khan11.57, 104.92
  • Sihanoukville11.56, 104.80

What it costs

Daily cost breakdown by budget tierHorizontal stacked bars showing accommodation, food, transport and activity costs per day, for budget, mid-range and splurge travellers.BudgetUSD 7USD 8USD 5USD 8USD 28Mid-rangeUSD 28USD 18USD 10USD 9USD 65SplurgeUSD 90USD 40USD 20USD 10USD 160
  • Stay
  • Food
  • Transport
  • Activities
Daily cost breakdown, USD per person
TierStayFoodTransportActivitiesTotal
BudgetUSD 7USD 8USD 5USD 8USD 28
Mid-rangeUSD 28USD 18USD 10USD 9USD 65
SplurgeUSD 90USD 40USD 20USD 10USD 160

A mid-range day: USD 28 boutique guesthouse room, USD 10 combined for Tuol Sleng and Choeung Ek entry, USD 10-15 on Grab and a waiting tuk-tuk for the memorial sites, USD 15-18 on two good meals and a coffee at a BKK1 cafe. Markets and the riverside cost nothing beyond what you spend.

Money savers

  • Combine Tuol Sleng and Choeung Ek in one hired tuk-tuk trip rather than two separate rides
  • Eat at Central or Russian Market food stalls for a full meal well under what a riverside restaurant charges
  • Use Grab instead of flagging tuk-tuks on the riverside strip, where tourist pricing is higher
  • Walk the riverside and Wat Phnom area, both free, rather than paying for a guided city tour
  • Book buses onward (to Siem Reap or Sihanoukville) directly through the operator's counter rather than a hotel desk markup

Food

Known for Bai sach chrouk (grilled pork and rice)

Khmer food gets mistaken for a milder Thai or a Vietnamese cousin, and it's neither. It leans less on chili than Thai cooking and centres on prahok, fermented fish paste, the way fish sauce anchors Vietnamese food, but cooked into dishes rather than splashed on at the table. Phnom Penh eats early: bai sach chrouk and kuy teav are breakfast food, often sold out by mid-morning. Halal options exist through the city's Cham Muslim community, though it takes more searching than in Malaysia. The riverside strip is where visitors default to, but it's the least interesting food in the city. BKK1 has a newer concentration of coffee shops and modern Khmer-fusion restaurants worth the trip inland.

Bai sach chrouk

USD 1.50-3Street carts, most active early morning to midday
Must try

Grilled pork over rice with pickled vegetables and a light broth on the side, Phnom Penh's other breakfast staple. Carts often sell out before noon.

Kuy teav

USD 1-3Street stalls and markets, especially in the morning
Must try

Pork or beef broth noodle soup, the city's default breakfast, cheap and everywhere, usually built to order with your choice of noodle and toppings.

Amok

USD 3-8Traditional Khmer restaurants and markets across the city
Must try

Steamed fish curry in coconut cream and kroeung, lemongrass spice paste, usually served in a banana leaf cup. Cambodia's most internationally known dish, and available in Phnom Penh even though Siem Reap gets more credit for it.

Lok lak

USD 3-7Central Market area restaurants and long-running Khmer-French eateries
Must try

Stir-fried marinated beef served over lettuce and tomato with a lime-pepper dipping sauce, a French-colonial-era Khmer dish and a fixture on nearly every menu in the city.

Nom banh chok

USD 1-2Morning markets, especially Psar Chas, Old Market, and neighbourhood markets

Rice noodles topped with a fish-based green curry sauce and fresh herbs, eaten cold, Cambodia's other breakfast staple alongside kuy teav. Market vendors sell it from baskets, not stalls.

Prahok-based dishes

USD 3-8Traditional Khmer restaurants away from the riverside

Fermented fish paste is the backbone of a lot of Khmer cooking, an acquired taste worth trying once with a guide from the menu.

BKK1 cafe and modern Khmer scene

USD 4-15BKK1 district

A genuinely good concentration of coffee shops and modern Khmer-fusion restaurants, worth an evening away from the riverside strip.

BKK1 matcha and specialty coffee wave

as of 2026-09
Viral

A cluster of new matcha bars and specialty coffee shops opening around BKK1 and the riverside, part of a broader Cambodian aesthetic-cafe boom. Individual shops open and close fast in this scene, so don't chase one specific name from a video. The neighborhood itself is worth wandering.

Indonesian Night Market at Chaktomuk Walking Street

as of 2026-09
Viral

A recurring Indonesian food and culture night market runs on Chaktomuk Walking Street in Phnom Penh, confirmed back for at least a second run in April 2026 after a November 2025 edition. Not a permanent fixture, it's a pop-up series, but it has kept coming back, which is more than most trend pieces can prove.

Late-night food scene

as of 2026-09
Viral

Khmer Times ran an August 2026 guide to eating after dark in Phnom Penh, pointing at a growing set of spots that stay open well past the usual dinner cutoff. This is a guide-piece trend, not a single hot spot. Read it as the city finally feeding its night owls, not a specific address to chase.

Tiramisu having a moment

as of 2026-09
Viral

A January 2026 roundup on where to get the best tiramisu in Phnom Penh points to the Italian dessert showing up across the city's cafe scene. The article that flagged this wouldn't fully load, so this stays at the dish level rather than naming a shop.

Craft beer festival scene

as of 2026-09
Viral

The Great Cambodian Craft Beer Festival ran in January 2026, putting Cambodia's small craft brewing industry in the spotlight, per Cambodia Investment Review. Craft beer is still a small scene here, but a dedicated festival getting press coverage means it's past the hobbyist stage.

Fried chicken and wings bars

as of 2026-09
Viral

Phnom Penh Post's June 2026 feature on fried food catching on locally points to a run of new bars built around fried wings paired with beer. Early days for this one. Worth watching if you're into bar food, not worth planning a meal around yet.

Safety and scams

Phnom Penh is generally safe to walk during the day; bag-snatching by motorbike (grabbing a phone or bag from a pedestrian or passing tuk-tuk) is the most common real risk, keep bags across your body and phones off the side facing traffic. Traffic itself is the bigger hazard, crossing wide boulevards takes the same slow, steady pace that works elsewhere in Southeast Asia. The Tuol Sleng and Choeung Ek visits are emotionally heavy rather than physically risky; pace the rest of that day accordingly.

Common mistakes

  • Giving Phnom Penh a single overnight layover between the airport and Siem Reap or the coast
  • Scheduling a market crawl or nightlife straight after Tuol Sleng and Choeung Ek
  • Showing up to the Royal Palace in shorts or a tank top and losing time to the dress code at the gate
  • Flagging a tuk-tuk on the riverside strip instead of using Grab, and overpaying as a result
  • Skipping the Russian Market because it looks unremarkable from the outside

Frequently asked questions

How many days do I need in Phnom Penh?

Two full days covers it properly: one for Tuol Sleng and Choeung Ek, one for the Royal Palace, museums, and markets. Most people budget one overnight on the way to Siem Reap or the coast, which shortchanges the city.

What should I expect at Tuol Sleng and Choeung Ek?

A serious, unembellished record of the Khmer Rouge period, cell blocks and photographs at Tuol Sleng, a mass grave memorial and stupa of skulls at Choeung Ek. Most visitors do both in one morning and don't plan anything upbeat for the rest of that day.

Is Phnom Penh safe?

Yes, day to day it's a low-risk capital. Watch for bag-snatching from passing motorbikes, particularly on the riverside, and cross wide roads slowly and predictably the way traffic here expects.

What's the dress code at the Royal Palace?

Shoulders and knees covered, strictly enforced at the gate. Sarongs are sold outside for anyone caught out, but it's simpler to dress appropriately before you arrive rather than lose time in that queue.

How do I get from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap?

By bus, roughly 5-6 hours on operators like Giant Ibis or Mekong Express, or by domestic flight, under an hour and often worth the extra cost if your schedule is tight.

Should I visit Phnom Penh before or after Angkor?

Either order works logistically. Some travellers prefer Angkor first for the lighter start, then Phnom Penh's history sites at the end. Others prefer understanding the history first, which changes how the rest of the country reads.

Is the Russian Market worth visiting?

Yes, it's hot and cramped but has the best range of actual finds, textiles, secondhand books, garment factory overruns. Central Market is the better stop for architecture alone.

What currency do I need in Phnom Penh?

USD for anything beyond small change, Cambodian riel for the rest, since Cambodia doesn't mint US coins and you'll get riel back as change. ATMs dispense both.

Is one day enough for Tuol Sleng and Choeung Ek?

Yes, most people do both in a single morning, roughly 4-5 hours including transit between them by tuk-tuk. Go early to avoid both the heat and the busiest tour group windows.

What's a good day trip from Phnom Penh?

Koh Dach (Silk Island) is the easiest close-in option, a short ferry ride to quiet weaving villages. Kampong Cham and Kratie are further but worth it if you have a week or more and want a slower look at the Mekong.

More in Cambodia

Full Cambodia travel guide

Sources

3 sources used for this guide

About the author

Labeeb Mirza runs paid acquisition for an online used-car marketplace, across Google Ads, Meta, Reddit, TikTok, StackAdapt, Bing, and CTV/YouTube.